Not In Nawlins No More

8.27pm, Sunday 4th November, Washington Street, Breaux Bridge, St Martins Parish, Louisiana

Evening Elvis Fans, my week in Nawlins had to end, and I said my goodbyes to the French Quarter and headed north through Baton Rouge back to Breaux Bridge – yep the crawfish capital of the world – because I’m booked to go out tomorrow into St Martins Swamp with the local Bayou king …..Norbert. I barely got out of the car this afternoon though, and I was kidnapped by the locals and taken a few miles ‘along the levee’ to Henderson, the local fishing village on the wet bit tributaries hooked into the Achafalaya river. Then a few miles beyond Henderson, there’s a small sign on a couple of star droppers at the edge of the road, at the bottom of the 25 foot high levee that says “Angelle’s Whiskey River Dance Hall”. You dive up the dirt track onto the levee, and there below you is a massive timber and tin shed dance hall and bar, right on the water. You have arrived! Get your supper from Norman – he’s the man in the Aggies baseball cap working out of his food trailer, I went with the ‘ sausage on a bun’ – because around here sausage means Andouille made within 20 miles folks – and ‘dressed’…..which in this part of the world means with lettuce, tomato, mayo, mustard and sauce. Tonight it’s Mardi GRAS Cajun Garlic sauce. And the good looking young lad talking to Norman was the sauce maker. ” thu greedynts come south uv Ah Ten” which translated means ” everything used to make this genuinely Cajun sauce comes from south of the interstate freeway I – 10, which makes it a totally local product”. Oh, nearly forgot, the band at “the dance” which goes from 4 – 10 pm was Jamie Bergeron and the Kickin Cajuns.Lots of zydeco accordion boogie, and everyone dances…..even the boys!!

Wait, I forgot this mornings bit in the French Quarter. Surprise surprise, it was an Elvis moment. If you’ve seen the movie “King Creole”, Elvis does the song “Crawfish” as the young lass drives her wagon up Rue Royal selling fresh seafood first thing in the morning. Where! On the first balcony of the very building in this photo… between Rue St Philip and Rue Dumaine. There you go folks…8am this morning when most people were still in bed….I was saying goodbye to the Crescent City with an Elvis tribute. I know you would expect nothing less.



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